MSC POESIA: Krstarenje od Miamija do Jamajke i Paname

     MoBay… Jamaicans have a very matter-of-fact and realistic take on life. "Your efforts will cost you," they say round these parts: and this applies even to the effort of having to pronounce the full name of a city, which is why Montego Bay, one of the most beautiful, blossoming, enjoyable cities in Jamaica, has (almost officially) been renamed MoBay.
     This is the most important tourist destination on the whole island: a relatively old city on the northwest coast that has seen more than its fair share of historic events, including battles. This has made the city centre an unquestionably unique and picturesque place although its troubled past also remains evident.
     Around Montego Bay however you can see that the city has made huge investments in the tourist industry: contrasting with the network of colourful narrow alleyways and the mass of continuously moving traffic (where everyone has one hand permanently on the horn), just outside the city centre perfectly kept beaches, modern hotels, extremely chic resorts with new golf courses, casinos and nightclubs continue to spring up all the time.
     The city is built around the port, which is logically the heart of the city: once upon a time you could buy everything at these docks, rum and sugar cane mostly, but also arms, clothing, furniture, gold and obviously cargo plundered from other ships. Today the city has at least partially rebuilt its most beautiful historical houses, constructed in a Georgian style and at least as impressive as their American Georgian counterparts.
     Until not so long ago Montego Bay, the essence of all that is Caribbean, was a focal point for the criminal world: pirates would stop off here to put their ships in order and share out their haul. Today there is an increasing number of Americans who come here to recharge their stressed-out batteries: it is a relatively new tourist destination that is becoming increasingly popular with European tourists too.
     The pace of life in this city is incredible, but no different from that in other Jamaican cities where people work the right amount, earn just enough money and enjoy life as much as they can.
     Since the days of independence in 1962, Jamaica has made a significant name for itself with its sporting legends, from sprinters and swimmers to its legendary bobsleigh team that still competes today, as well its musical geniuses (reggae prophets such as Bob Marley). It has found that it has many friends and there are many tourists keen to visit its length and breadth.
     Finding a single style that sums up what Jamaica is all about is no easy task: Jamaica by definition is many things in one. A little like its language, the patois, an incredible mix of at least five languages, or its food, inspired by Arawak (the island's original inhabitants), African, Chinese and English influences, and obviously its music. Different musical revolutions have taken place here at various times: from soul to calypso to soca (from the contraction and combination of these two styles,) as well as mento, a more rhythm based calypso with an Afro-Cuban feel, and the most popular style in Montego Bay.
     Sipping a beer on the beach while relaxing to the rhythms of the calypso or some sensual reggae music: you can do it anywhere, but it is only in Montego Bay that it really seems to make sense.

     The second-largest city in Panama, only a few hours drive from the canal country's capital; Colon, which owes its name to its discoverer, Christopher Columbus, is today the most active and dynamic port in Panama. Its frenetic activity is a key factor in the country's economy and, during the last 20 years, both commercial and passenger traffic has undergone exponential growth. Colon is, generally speaking, the major import-export gateway in Panama, thus making it one of the cornerstones of the national economy.
     It is located at one end of the canal, on the Caribbean side, and is clearly a nerve centre for the entire Panama canal because, as the local sailors say, "whether on your way in or on your way out, you have to pass through Colon, and you have to pay the toll".
     Its geographically and commercially strategic position has been decisive for this city which, since 1953, has had free-port status. Its business activities, carried out everywhere from stalls and to hypermarkets, are surely one of the city's principal attractions.
     The city is relatively young. It was founded in 1850, by the Americans working on the famous Panama railway. In fact, it was first called Aspinwall, from the name of one of its founders. But this name only lasted a few years, because one of the Spanish residents, a Castilian elected as a representative of the inhabitants, was authorised by his fellow citizens to change the name of the city to Colon, in honour of Christopher Columbus. Here, the story becomes less clear. The Genoese claim that their city was the birthplace of the great navigator, while in Panama, people are convinced that Columbus was Spanish.
     It is, in any case, certain that Columbus passed this way. The description of the bay made by the navigator in one of his few surviving travel documents seems to be a clear reference to the Bay of Colon and to the mouth of the canal.
     With the passing of time, more and more has been discovered about the curious origins of the city. For example, the fact that its founders, and therefore its first inhabitants, were primarily adventurers who, having set out in search of gold in California, ended up becoming miners and railway workers, contributing to the rapid development of the city which, within only a few decades, had a railway station, a hotel, various services and a small but extremely active port.
     From these relatively humble beginnings, Colon became the port it is today, with three different harbour areas, each of which developed at different periods of time and which, taken together, make the port what is probably the wealthiest in the Caribbean.
     The city's life has not been without difficulty. The coastline back in 1850, during the period when the city was being founded, was certainly not as we see it today. The first people to live here were decimated by malaria and yellow fever, which thrived along the coast and in the surrounding marshes.
     Today, the Panamanian government is committed to creating a very clear and interesting tourist image for its country, "more than just a canal", as the slogan says. And, it is true. Colon, with its markets, its multi-coloured houses, its little churches and its constantly bustling life, between the port and the city's lanes and passageways, is an extremely musical and very interesting city.
     And what's more, Colon is always blessed by the climate and the ocean currents which, because of various meteorological factors, have never generated here any of the hurricanes for which the Caribbean area is known.
     And then there is the fascinating fact that here, only a few kilometres sailing distance apart, lie, almost face-to-face, two of the world's oceans. Something which does not occur anywhere else in the world.

     The island of Roatán was discovered by Christopher Columbus during his fourth voyage in 1502, but soon became an English colony and a favourite haunt of pirates, who found safe shelter at Port Royal (as the capital Roatán City, or Coxen's Hole, was then known). At the turn of the seventeenth century the Spanish estimated that the island harboured around 5,000 English buccaneers. During the second half of the eighteenth century, the British deported the indigenous Caribs of the island of St. Vincent to Roatán, where they mixed with former black slaves.
     In 1859 the island became part of Honduras and adopted Spanish as its official language. Roatán's population is thus composed of the descendents of the early settlers and pirates, descendents of the black slave population and Honduran Amerindians. Consequently, the somatic traits of its inhabitants are surprisingly mixed and the population features various types of people.
     Situated 50 km from the northern coast of Honduras, Roatán has an area of 300 km2 and a population of approximately 7000. It is the largest of the Islas de la Bahia, an archipelago that also includes the islands of Guanaja and Utila and is the continuation of the Belize Barrier Reef. The long, narrow island of Roatán is around 50 km in length, although its maximum width is just 5 km, making it possible to see both the island's northern and southern coasts in some spots. The road network is still fairly new and indeed the island has just one surfaced road running from west to east, whilst the intersecting roads are actually just dirt tracks.
     It rains frequently and the island has an average of 20 days of rain each month. The driest months are January and February. As a consequence of the abundant rainfall, Roatán is covered with masses of luxuriant vegetation with lush woods and forests. The rain has also favoured agricultural activity, most notably the cultivation of bananas, but also sugarcane and various precious woods.
     Roatán City, located on the southeastern coast, is the island's capital and has a population of approximately 4,000. It is within easy reach of the best beaches such as Flowers Bay, French Harbour and Brick Bay, as well as the splendid and world-famous West Bay Beach. The waters around the island are simply spectacular and snorkelling and diving are among the favourite activities of visitors. The sea is teeming with tropical fish, various species of coral and sponges. Tropical groupers can be encountered by divers in the area known as Peter's Place. The wealth of marine fauna has also enabled the development of a fishing industry, which exports mainly prawns and lobster.
     The village of Oak Ridge is another very interesting spot and is surrounded by canals with mangroves, a fishing port and colourful pile-dwellings. Here one can admire the remains of the British fortifications once visited by the admiral of the Royal Navy, Lord Nelson.
     In addition to the typical, brightly coloured Caribbean garments, local crafts include pottery and various objects produced from wood, especially mahogany, which is used for sculptures, furnishings and cutlery. The local shops also sell plenty of cigars and interwoven wooden items.

     With a population of around 360,000, but almost 5 million in the entire urban area, Miami is Florida's most heavily populated city. It began to expand in 1896 when railway reached the city and Miami became a municipality. The pleasant climate and idyllic landscapes with numerous kilometres of beach propelled the city towards its first economic boom in the 1930s, although even greater development was to take place in the '50s.
     Thanks to the mild climate, particularly in the winter when the majority of major cities on the East Coast of the US are at freezing point, Miami quickly carved out a role for itself in the tourism industry.
      The city is also strategically located opposite the Caribbean and just 145km from Cuba: heavy Cuban immigration has consequently helped shape the identity of Miami in terms of culture and language. Indeed half of the city's population is now of Hispanic origin.
     The city is divided into distinct neighbourhoods, some of which have separate and independent local governments, such as Miami Beach. Biscayne Boulevard is the main attraction in the area around the port and is flanked by large parks such as Bayfront Park and the Bicentennial Park; to the south of the port lies the financial district.
     In downtown Miami, Flager Street is where to head to do a bit of shopping in the department stores and clothes, electronics, sports and jewellery shops. In the Metro Dade Center you can visit the Museum of Southern Florida, the city's main library, and the Museum of Fine Arts, which holds temporary modern art exhibitions. Coconut Grove is Miami's oldest district and has become, over time, an exclusive and refined residential area. Here you will find the local government offices, City Hall's home is an ex-1930s hangar. Other places of note in the neighbourhood include Peacock Park and the Dinner Key, Miami's tourist port.
     Little Havana is the Cuban district characterised by an almost Caribbean atmosphere where Spanish is spoken more readily than English. The main road Calle Ocho runs through the district, which is lined with shops and cafés, whilst other places of interest include the Museum of the Cuban Arts and Culture, the Museum of Science and the Máximo Gómez Park.
     Six kilometres to the east of Miami is Miami Beach, an island comprising a long, thin strip of sand connected to the mainland by a system of bridges. The southern end of Miami Beach is called South Beach and it is here that the city's recent rebirth began.
     Miami's image had been tarnished in the '80s by heavy crime, racial violence, and the drugs and gambling culture that has been synonymous with the city since the 1930s when it was one of the few places in the States untouched by Prohibition.
     The Art Deco Historic District, built up in the 1920s and noted for its pastel, rose, lavender and turquoise colour houses, has recently been restored and represents an excellent example of the urban restoration of modern architecture, attracting thousands of tourists each year. But Miami Beach also means the seafront and the famous Ocean Drive that separates the beach from the infinite numbers of bars and restaurants. An never-ending parade of bizarre cars, roller-skaters, skateboarders, and super-accessorised Harley Davidsons ensure that visitors remain amused.
     As with the rest of the culture in Florida, food and drink in Miami has a heavy Cuban and Caribbean influence: the fish and seafood caught in the Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico form the base of the most popular dishes.
     Florida is also known for its large-scale production of fruit and vegetables, and is one of the biggest producers in the States.